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141105s2014 hiuab b s001 0 eng c |
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|a 2013034125
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|a9780824839543 (USA : pbk.) :|cNT$1048
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|a0824839544 (USA : pbk.)
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|a(OCoLC)857754045|z(OCoLC)870287934|z(OCoLC)881377606
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|aHU/DLC|beng|cHUH|dDLC|dSTF|dOCLCO|dYDXCP|dBTCTA|dBDX|dCDX|dOCLCF|dAU@
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|aGC211.2|b.B88 2014
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|a551.46/3|223
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|aNLB|bA9 |cE050536|d554.463|eB988|pBOOK|tDDC
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100 |
1
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|aButt, Tony.
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245 |
10
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|aSurf science :|ban introduction to waves for surfing /|cTony Butt.
|
250 |
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|a3rd ed.
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260 |
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|aHonolulu :|bUniversity of Hawaiʻi Press,|c2014.
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300 |
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|a136 p. :|bill. (some col.), maps (some col.) ;|c25 cm.
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504 |
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|aIncludes bibliographical references (p. 128-129) and index.
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505 |
0
|
|aLarge-scale air movements -- Formation of a depression -- Growth of waves on the ocean -- Propagation of free-travelling swell -- Waves in shallow water -- Wave-breaking -- The temperature of the water -- Local winds on the coast -- The tides -- Rips -- Forecasting 1: the basics -- Forecasting 2: inside the black box -- Forecasting 3: surfing in the storm.
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520 |
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|aHave you ever wondered where surfing waves come from, what makes every wave different, why some peel perfectly and others just close out; why, some days, the waves come in sets and other days they don't, and how the tides, the wind and the shape of the sea floor affect the waves for surfing? If you have, this book is for you. Now in its third edition, Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help you learn how to predict surf. Surf Science is also a useful introduction to oceanography and the science of waves. You don't need a scientific background to read it - just curiosity and a fascination for waves.
|
650 |
0
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|aOcean waves.
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650 |
0
|
|aWave-motion, Theory of.
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650 |
0
|
|aSurfing.
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941 |
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|l487845
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